Thursday, December 3, 2009

Fruit trees for Austin


Fall / winter is the time to plant temperate fruit trees and we’ve got a great selection right now. We do a great deal of research to get varieties that will work well here in central Texas with little maintenance. So, let’s take a quick look at these fruit trees and cover a few basics you’ll need to know before planting.
First, a temperate fruit tree is a tree that will do fine outdoors, in the ground, in our weather conditions. The alternative would be tropical and sub-tropical fruit trees, like avocado, mango, and even citrus. These trees can be damaged or even killed by hard winter freezes, depending on the variety. The rule of thumb here in central Texas for temperate trees is the “P” fruits: peaches, pears, plums, persimmons, pomegranate, and phig (OK, so it’s really fig, but I needed it to work). We are also trying a few types of apples this year, although reports of their success seem to be mixed.
Second, be sure you have the room and conditions necessary to grow a fruit tree. While I encourage pruning trees to a size that is “reachable” for you, they will still need at least 8’-10’ of space away from a building or other trees and AT LEAST 5 hours of direct sun for good production. Full sun all day is fine for all these trees and will lead to better production.
Next, it’s time to choose a tree. Now, I have listed several types of fruit above, but all peaches (or pears, or plums, etc…) are not created equally. Many of the temperate fruits require a certain number of chill hours to produce fruit. Chill hours are the number of hours below 45 degrees between October and February. We strive to carry only low chill hour fruits, as we can often have very mild winters and hence, few chill hours. Even with the attempts we make, some winters are just too mild for good production. The Austin area averages about 700 chill hours a winter, but this can be extremely variable. All the good, independent garden centers in town do their research. Box stores likely do not.
Last, here are a few other tidbits of info you will need to know when choosing a fruit tree. All fruit trees will produce best if they have a cross-pollinator nearby, but some varieties require it. Peach, pomegranate, fig, persimmon, and some plums can be self-fruitful. Pears, apples, and most plums need another tree nearby to produce a good crop. This means room for not one, but two trees. Also, be sure to look at the characteristics of the specific variety you are looking at. Do you want a freestone or clingstone peach? Do you plan on cooking with your pears or eating them fresh? Do you prefer an astringent or non-astringent persimmon? One of our plant consultants will be glad to help you answer these questions and find the variety that is best for you.
So, plant a fruit tree or two this winter and be rewarded with a bumper crop of fresh fruit for years to follow.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Attack of the Aphids!!!


Something wicked has been awakened by the recent rain and cool weather. In all my years in the garden business, I have never seen an explosion of aphids like we’ve seen in the last couple of weeks. Just the other day, I saw several free flying aphids in the middle of a parking lot. I was at least 50 feet from any plant, surrounded by asphalt.

So what can we do about these critters that have suddenly left everything sticky and covered in sooty mold? To start, keep an eye out for the source of the sap. In my yard, it is my pecan trees. I can park a freshly washed car in the drive and within two hours, it is covered in a sticky film. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can practically do about large trees like this. Just keep an eye on any understory plants. Be sure the aphids are not spreading to these plants and keep an eye out for sooty mold (more on that in a minute). If the aphids are on lower plants, small trees, shrubs, and perennials, you can treat them in several very effective ways.

One of the first ways to go after the aphids is simply to blast them with high pressure water. Products such as the Bug Blaster help to create a spray that is strong enough to remove the bugs but not enough to hurt plants. This is always my first line of defense. If blasting doesn’t seem to be effective, there are a number of great organic products that are very effective on aphids. Insecticidal soap is by far the safest product you can use. It is a very simple soap that is very harmless to people, plants, and animals. Another product I really like is Orange Oil. It is a natural insecticide, miticide, and fungicide. It works really well on aphids and many other insects, but a little care needs to be take when it is used. Never spray an oil in the middle of a sunny day. Be careful of plants in the mint family, including all the salivas, as they will not tolerate oils. If in doubt, test your plant before covering with oil.

Not only will the soap or Orange Oil kill the aphids, they both help to break down the sooty mold. You see, many insects (aphids, scale, mealy bugs) suck chlorophyll from plants. Chlorophyll is a complex sugar made by the plant. Their simple digestive system processes these sugars a little, but what they secrete is basically sugar water called Honey Dew. When Honey Dew accumulates on a surface, especially plant leaves, it can begin to mold. It will turn black and become what is known as Sooty Mold. Enough Sooty Mold on a plant can great hinder that plant’s ability to do photosynthesis and continue to prosper.

Also, before spraying, look for beneficial insects that may already be doing your job for you. There are pictures above of both ladybug larvae and green lacewings. These are both voracious aphid eaters and we would highly encourage you to leave them and let nature take care of the invasion.

Still have questions? Feel free to click on the “Contact Us” link or call the nursery for more info.

Friday, September 18, 2009

It's Corn Gluten Time!!!

Corn Gluten is an excellent, natural way to control (notice I didn't say eliminate) weeds in the lawn. It is usually applied 2 times a year. A September/October application is done to control the early spring weeds that pop up in late February. In February/March another application is done to control the summer weeds. It is in stock now and ready to be applied.

Monday, September 7, 2009

THNAK YOU AUSTIN!!!


Thanks to all of you that voted Great Outdoors as Best Garden Center in the Chronicles Best of '09. We are very flattered and hope to continue doing what we've done to be the best.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Semi-Annual Pottery Sale

It's time again for the semi-annual pottery sale. All weekend (until Wednesday, 9/9 actually) all pots are on sale. At least 20% off, some selected pots are even 30%-70% off.
We will be open on Monday 9am-6pm.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Cure for the Summertime Blues Sale


This sale starts Friday and goes for a while. For best selection, shop early. Once items are gone, they're gone!!!

Friday, June 26, 2009

Helping plants deal with summer heat

It's summertime, and the livin' is, .... well,..... it ain't easy, at least not for a plant. Just posted some ideas for helping your plants deal with summer heat on our main website at www.gonursery.com . Take a minute to read these tips and be sure you're helping your plants the best you can.