Bromeliad Madness

Learn a bit about Merrideth's newest plant obsession. When the G.M. has a new favorite, the store gets a great selection, so come and check out our newest additions. Full article here.

New agaves and yuccas are here

We just got a new shipment of agaves and yuccas. Great selection of cool and unusual plants.

Summertime Sale

The pic says it all!!! Summer clearance sale. All plants 40% off, all pottery 15% off. Saturday 8/14- Friday 8/20.

Proper Spraying Techniques

Also, read my article at:

www.gonursery.com

Agave, Yucca, and Related Plants

Agave and Yucca for Austin

First, let’s make sure we are clear about the differences between these plants, cacti, and succulents. Plants in the family agavaceae form from a central rosette with rigid stems and piercing tips on the ends of the stems. Cacti, on the other hand, are spinney and leafless plants that share the same arid conditions. Succulents comprise a large variety of species and may or may not be freeze hardy. They still prefer an arid dry environment. All these plants are succulents.

We will list several species here that have proven to do well in Austin and the surrounding regions. All require good drainage. Adding an aggregate material, such as expanded shale or decomposed granite works well. If you have very heavy clay, a bit of compost will help as well. Full to part sun for most, but there are exceptions. While most would survive if never watered, plants will look best if given a deep soaking occasionally in very hot, dry summers.

Agaves: Possibly one of the most striking families of plants, agaves are a large group with great variety in color and size. Nearly all are stemless (the rosette stays low to the ground, unlike some yucca or others). Also, most are monocarpic, meaning they flower once in their life, then die. The bloom is spectacular and they often leave a way to propagate many more. One downside to the agave, they cannot be pruned for size restriction like most shrubs. While older leaves can be removed, generally they should be allowed to grow and can become quite large. Be sure to check size info to pick a plant that won’t outgrow your spot. Many species are also available in variegated forms, some of which may be more cold sensitive.

A. Americana – Possibly the most common here in Austin. Pups freely. 6’x8’. Z8-11

A. parryi-Parry Agave. 2’x2’ Z5-11. Ssp.’Truncata’-Artichoke Agave. Also 2’x2’, Z8-11. More compact growth than regular parryi.

A. Montana- 4’x5’. Z6-11

A. Victoria Regina-One of the smallest. 1.5’x1.5’ Z8-11.

A. Salmiana-One of the largest. Green leaves. 8’x10’ Z8-11

A. Franzosini-Another very large one. Silver leaves. 8’x10’ Z8-11

A.Geminiflora– Twin Flowered Agave. May prefer some afternoon shade. May bllom without dying. 3’x3’. Z8-11

A.Vilmoriana- Octopus Agave. 4’x4’ Z9-11,

Other small agave that work well here: A. Lopantha, A. Bracteosa, A. Filifera, A. Stricta

Yuccas: A relative of the agave, yuccas are notable for their rosettes of evergreen, tough, sword-shaped leaves and large terminal clusters of white or whitish flowers. They are native to the hot and dry (arid) parts of North America, Central America, South America, and the West Indies. Unlike most agave, once mature, yuccas will bloom every year. Larger specimens may produce numerous bloom spikes. Sizes listed are maturity and may take several years to be achieved. Like most agave, most yuccas prefer full to part sun and good drainage.

Y. aloifolia- Spanish Dagger. 10’ tall on trunk. Z7-11.

Y. baccata- Banana Yucca. 4’ tall, forms colony. Z5-11.

Y. filamentosa- Adam’s Needle. 4’ tall, form colony. Z4-11

Y. pallida- Pale Leaf Yucca. 3’ tall, forms colony. Z7-11

Y. pendula (recurvifolia)- Soft Leaf Yucca. 8’ tall, form small colony. Z7-11. Tolerates medium shade.

Y. rostrata- Beaked Yucca. 15’+, usually solitary. Z5-11

Y. rupicola- Twisted Leaf Yucca. 2’ tall, forms small colony. Z8-11. Tolerates shade well and may burn in too much sun.

Y. thompsoniana- Thompson’s Yucca. 10’ tall, usually solitary. Z7-11

Hesperaloe: These yucca-like plants are also in the agave family. The plants have long, narrow leaves produced in a basal rosette and flowers borne on long panicles or racemes. The species are native to arid parts of Texas and Mexico. Sizes vary, depending on species. Flowers range from red to yellow, pink to white. Some species include: H. parvifola- Red Yucca.(also comes in yellow, and sold as Yellow Yucca), A fairly common plant in Austin and possibly one of the easiest plants to grow. H. funifera- Giant Red Yucca, and H. nocturna- Night Blooming Yucca.

Nolina and Dasylirion: Other agave relatives of note. These families included the sotols and tree grasses. Like yuccas, they bloom annually, once mature. Many of these plants have finer textures and some are spineless, making for a friendlier arid garden.

Fall tomatoes are here!

Summer Veggies-Round 2
Well, the heat has finally arrived (but thanks for all the summer rain!) and your veggies may be looking a little “long in the tooth” as we say. Many of our favorite summer veggies (tomatoes and peppers for sure) have a hard time producing flowers, and consequently fruit, in the high summer heat. This is not due as much to the daytime highs as to the nighttime “lows”. When our low temp is in the upper 70’s and 80’s, the plants can’t rest overnight to produce new flower buds. Some people will cut back their existing plants and try to reflush them for fall production, but most of us plant a new fall crop to get maximum yield.
This week, we got our first shipment of fall tomatoes in and I expect to see more of those and fall peppers arriving soon. Small plants are put in now and they will grow quickly in the heat. As the plants near maturity, the heat should (hopefully) break and they can begin to flower and produce fruit for a late summer/early fall harvest. There are a few things to keep in mind when planting these fresh for fall veggies however.
First, you are planting young plants in very high temps. They will need to be irrigated regularly, until they can get some roots going. Planning mid August vacation for a week or two, maybe skip the fall plot, unless you have a reliable waterer. Using a product like liquid seaweed is a great way to kick start root growth (naturally) on small plants and don’t forget to pot down tomatoes. If you don’t know what that means, ask one of our passionate plant professionals! Some people will also make a screen to the south and west of new plants to relieve some of the late day heat. Row cover or shade cloth works great for this. ***Merrideth Tip- Harbour Freight Tools sells a small piece of shade cloth pretty cheap in their tarp section. ***
Second, varieties are more limited for fall planting. Generally, we look for quicker maturing varieties or the tried and true stuff. We often get a little flack from people that want more and more unusual varieties to try in the garden. Rest assured, we will get everything that is offered by our growers. It will be limited.
We hope to see these plants producing in late August to mid-to-late September. Still plenty of time to get a bumper crop and leave time for the real fall plantings of leaf crops such as lettuces, cabbage, broccoli, etc…
Our veggies growers usually deliver on Thursday afternoons, so check on Friday to see what arrived. Again, we order just about everything we can, so if we don’t have it, it probably isn’t out there.
Good luck and good gardens!

Mosquito Control on Fox7

Mosquito Control

Mosquito Control
Here in Texas, mosquitoes are just a way of life. Bites and itches are almost inevitable. Some people react differently to a bite and there is some danger from mosquitoes, however I think most TV reports are a bit exclamatory. I’ve got some tips to help you control mosquitoes in your yard. Notice I say control. You will never get rid of those pint sized pests. Let’s take a look at a few things any homeowner can do to help.
First, there are two battles occurring in our war against mosquitoes. The most obvious is a battle against the adults, the ones delivering the annoying and potentially harmful bites. Controlling adults is really more a matter of repelling them. While there are ways to kill lots of adult mosquitoes, I will assume that you do not want to poison your yard and environment to do so.
***Quick side bar: those “Mosquito Mister” systems that got so popular a couple of years back can be DANGEROUS!!! While it is, generally, true that they use a “natural” compound, the substance they use is Pyrethrum. Pyrethrum is organic, but also a very poisonous neuro-toxin. While we do “prescribe” it for some insect control, it is NOT a good idea to spray it over your entire yard, every hour, all summer long. It will kill all the insect life in your yard and could have negative effects on your pets and family from prolonged, repeated exposure.***
So, back to repelling adult mosquitoes. There are several options available to help. Most all use natural oils that release vapors that the mosquitoes despise (Finally, we get to annoy them!!!). For longest control, granular products are available. Dr. T’s and Cedarcide are both long lasting granules that are spread around areas you want protected. I use Dr. T’s and have had great results. I do find that it works best on soft surfaces, grass, beds, mulch, etc… It also may take a few hours to really start controlling, so don’t drop it out right before party guests arrive. These products contain garlic, lemongrass, or cedar oils that are released slowly from an inert granule. They will usually last 6-10 days, unless there is rain or heavy mist/dew. Cedarcide also makes a liquid version that comes in a hose-end sprayer. This delivers a similar effect, but is easier and quicker. While I don’t think it lasts quite as long, it does go to work much more quickly. There are also the incense products for quick and cheap control. We sell the Amazon Lights brand, a type with less citronella so they don’t smell as strong. They contain Andiroba oil, which is harvested sustainably.
So, these are all ways to repel adult mosquitoes and hopefully keep them from attacking you and your guests when in the outdoors. Of course, there are also the repellents you put on yourself; Off, Cutter, and Avon all make repellents. Natural repellents are available from Burt’s Bees and others, even a local company called One Fine Kid makes a natural, kid safe repellent (we sell this one!). You can also make your own natural repellent. Start with 190 proof grain alcohol from the liquor store, then blend in citronella, rosemary, and/or other oils from your local store to make a custom blend. I prefer the natural route, in theory, but if you are going to spend lots of time outside or in heavily infested areas or if you have severe reactions to bites, go for the one containing DEET, the best mosquito repellent. If you are concerned about using it, try to spray your socks and shoes, shorts or pants, shirt, etc… and not your skin. I find it still works pretty well.
Keeping the biting adults away is always welcome, but how can we eliminate the adults and try to have as close as possible to a mosquito free yard…KILL THE LARVAE!!! If you can reduce the larvae population, you will significantly reduce the number of biting adults. Here’s how.
First, get rid of all standing water that you can. We all know about old tires and bowls sitting around the yard, but really spend some time and look for anything that will hold as little as a few tablespoons of water. While inspecting the nursery, I found an old drink cup, an upside-down chair (which created a “bowl”), and a garden pot who’s drainage hole was blocked and holding water. All great places for mosquitoes to breed. If you have water that you cannot eliminate, a birdbath, pond, etc… , you can use Mosquito Bits to control larvae. These are small bits inoculated with Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacteria that is deadly to mosquito larvae, but safe for people, birds, pets, and such.
So, let’s say you’ve covered all these bases and are still seeing TONS of mosquitoes. What now? Well, I suggest you look for a “dark and dank” area in your yard. You know, those places that always seem a little cooler and moist. Maybe a pile of old leaves under the deck, a thick stand of ivy under a tree, you know the kind of area I’m referring to. Well, mosquitoes can breed in these “damp” areas. So, what can we do in these areas? Well, there has been some promising research into using Spinosad to treat for mosquito larvae. Similar to Bacillus thuringiensis, Spinosad is made from the fermentation of a naturally occurring bacteria. Now, officially, I cannot recommend a product be used for a purpose not listed on it’s label, so you didn’t hear it from me. You could also spray an area like that with pyrethrum, but I think it is much more “dangerous” for most homeowners.
Finally, there are the mosquito traps. Propane powered, often very expensive, traps have been met with mixed reviews. Some people love them, others say they don’t work at all. We are now carrying a much smaller and infinitely cheaper trap that is a plastic jar and lure packet. I opened one the other day and it was FULL of mosquitoes!!! Seems to work pretty well for a $15 investment.
We all want to enjoy the outdoors in summer, but mosquitoes can make the outdoors a bit inhospitable. A few simple steps and a touch of diligence can really help any homeowner make their yard much less attractive to mosquitoes and much more family and friend friendly!

KLRU Citrus Spot

Tree Planting tips

Succulents make local news!!!

My Fox7 segment on Succulents with Keri Bellacosa.

"Summerizing" your plants

Spring has sprung, then bounced, and now landed in some pretty firm summer like temps. I know lots of people have done a lot of planting this spring and now that the heat has arrived, you’re wondering what to do. Well, just like we “winterize” plants for the cold temps, you can also “summerize” plants for the warm temps on the way. Here are a few tips to help out.
First, get your plants on a sensible watering schedule. Most plants, even newly planted, should not need to be watered every day, if watered properly. A good watering is long and slow, allowing water to permeate the soil on multiple levels and reach deep into the root ball and surrounding soil. I am often amazed as I watch my neighbors shoot a hose at their flower beds for 20-30 seconds and then tell me they are “watering”. I spend at least 5 minutes watering areas that need it. And by areas, I mean nothing more than about 100 square feet (10’x10’) at a time. For plants with larger root balls (trees, bamboos, large shrubs) I put on a small spot sprinkler and run it for 15 minutes or so. If you have a sprinkler system, it should run at least 20-30 minutes per zone, but no more than twice a week. When it gets really hot, I would like to see a short cycle, maybe 5 minutes, to “prepare” the soil to accept water, then a longer, 15-20 minute cycle, to soak in. A good rain (1/2” or more) can replace a watering cycle. Ever notice that a plant that seems to be struggling looks tons better after a good long rain? That is nature’s version of a slow, deep soaking.
“But my plants are wilted if I don’t water them every day”, a common statement. #1- a slight wilt is not the worst thing in the world for a plant. It encourages the plant to send out roots “searching” for more moisture. Now I don’t mean completely flat, drooped over, crashed wilt. I am referring to a slight nod of the leaves. #2- When watered thoroughly, this shouldn’t happen. #3- If your plant is watered well and still wilts to a full droop every day, perhaps it is not the right plant for the area.
Also, water at a good time. Early or late is best, and there are a couple of reasons. First, watering in the middle of the day tends to waste more water, as it evaporates more quickly in the heat and sun. Second, water droplets on a plant in the high sun of mid-day can lead to leaf burn. For me, morning coffee and the water hose are a ritual. I don’t try and water the entire yard at one time. I try to do a bed or two a day (I’ve got plenty) and that tends to work out to one good cup of Joe. For my deep soaking of trees etc, I put the sprinkler on at the beginning of a TV show, then go out and move it or cut it off at a commercial break (usually 10-20 minutes in).
Next, watch out for over fertilizing. As temps rise, we would like to see a slowing of growth on plants. It takes a lot of water for plants to put on a lot of new growth. This new growth is also more susceptible to wilting, as it has not hardened off. As we enter late May-early June, your choice of fertilizer should steer towards slow release, low numbers. Generally, I would like to see no number higher than a 10 in the analysis of your fertilizer. Granular is great, as it releases slowly for the plant to use as needed.
You may notice, as our night time “lows” enter the 80’s, that some of your perennials and such don’t seem to bloom as well. Nothing you can do about that, but use this phenomenon as a chance to help your plants along. Many “vigorous” growers, such as Salvias, Copper Canyon Daisy, and others can get quite large in a single season. If allowed to grow, unchecked, they can get so big that they seem to fall apart when fall rains arrive. Cut these plants back by 1/3 to ½ to reduce foliage and control size. This will also reduce water needs. Use this tip with a bit of caution however. Some of our favorite plants, Pride of Barbados, Esparanza, Firebush to name a few, LOVE the summer heat and don’t really put on their show until it is hot. If you are unsure, feel free to contact us and let us guide you..
Finally, my #1 tip for preparing plants for summer heat is Liquid Seaweed. People think I must own stock in this stuff, because I push it all the time (trust me, I don’t). I feel it is THE BEST thing you can do for your plants. Seaweed contains high levels of Potassium Silicate, a key element in plant cell structures. Giving your plants this compound, directly on the leaves or through the roots, encourages thick, strong cells that are more prepared for the rigors of summer (actually, winter too!!!). I do a foliar feed, about every two weeks, from the emergence of new leaves in spring through dormancy in winter. I have very few insect, disease, or establishment problems with my plants and I think the seaweed is a key reason why.
So, never fear the scorching days of our Texas summer. You won;t be married to your hose and the garden if you follow these easy steps. Good luck and good gardening.

Starting Seeds Indoors

Well, the dark days of winter are upon us and the garden is probably looking a little bleak. We are all basking in the few hours of sunlight we are getting, like lizards trying to energize for the day. While there isn’t a lot to do in the garden right now, you can start thinking about what to plant for spring and it’s almost time to start your seeds indoors for transplanting in spring. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you be more successful.
#1 Get Fresh Seeds
TGO carries a number of different seed lines and tries to offer Austin’s best seed selection. A little research before hand is a great thing. Don’t buy a paste tomato if you want a slicing fruit, etc… Sometimes a large selection is a great thing, sometimes it’s a bit overwhelming.
#2 Get a Seed Starting Mix
Garden soil is not a good choice, as it compacts too easily and can harbor organisms that cause diseases. A commercially prepared seed starting mix is recommended. Avoid mixes that have a high fertilizer content, as this causes more problems than good. TGO carries a couple of special seed starting mixes, plus our own TGO brand of potting soil is coir based, and coir is an excellent medium for seed starting.
Combine the seed starting mix thoroughly with warm water to bring it to a useable state. This may take quite a lot of mixing, as completely dry mixes can be difficult to wet. Sometimes it's best to let the moistened mix sit overnight to be sure that it is evenly wet. The final mix should be damp like a wrung-out sponge, not soaked or soggy.
#3 Select Some Containers
Tomato seeds will germinate in anything as long as the seeds get moisture and warmth. After germination and initial growth, the seedlings need to be potted up to larger containers. Containers must be able to drain excess water. If using old or previously used containers, its best to sterilize them with a 10% bleach solution.
Your choice of containers for potting up depends on the number of plants you desire. Professional nurseries use growing "flats" with various-sized plastic cell inserts. Many sizes and kinds of flats are commercially available to the home grower, but they are not essential. TGO has these and other options for sale in our tool room.
#4 Determine When to Start
Many novices fail at starting tomatoes simply because they start too early. Given the proper care, full-sized tomato transplants can be grown in 6 to 8 weeks.
Before planting seeds, you must determine when your plants can be safely placed into the garden. Planting outdoors is best done about 1 or 2 weeks after the average last frost date, which is March 15th for Austin. Many people will place plants out earlier, but one good freeze and any lack of protection will kill a young plant easily.
#5 Plant Your Seeds
Fill a small container with damp seed starting mix. Plant your seeds about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep. Firm the mix lightly to ensure that the seed is in direct contact with the moist mix. The seed needs to absorb moisture during the germination process.
You can plant lots of seeds close together because the resulting seedlings will be moved to larger containers after germination (when the first true leaves appear).
It is a good idea to provide some sort of covering over your germination containers to preserve moisture. You can place the container in a plastic bag or cover it with a sheet of plastic. Allow for some air to circulate but don't let the mix dry out. Dry seeds will not germinate.
#6 Patiently Wait for Germination
Place the germination container in a warm location out of direct sunlight. Light is not needed during the germination process, but will not be harmful as long as high temperatures are avoided. Special heat mats for seed germination are available at TGO and really help get seeds going quickly. This may the best tip you can take away from this article.
Tomato seeds usually germinate within 5 to 10 days when kept in the optimum temperature range of 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). Germination is delayed by lower temperatures and accelerated by higher temperatures. Temperatures below 50F (10C) or above 95F (35C) are detrimental to germination. Other plants may be a little slower or faster to germinate, but a week or two is nearly universal.
Keep a close eye on the first seedlings, as they need to be moved into bright light as soon as they emerge from the soil. They will explosively reach for light, and if the light is not adequate, you will get 3-inch-long (8 cm long) stems shortly after germination - this is very undesirable. If this occurs, you could try to transplant to a deeper container, or you may want to start over.
#7 Put the Seedlings under Light
Very strong light is needed to support tomato growth. A heated greenhouse is the ultimate location to continue growing your seedlings. A second choice would be a cold frame (possibly with supplemental heat for cool nights).
Many home growers use inexpensive fluorescent shop lights. The “Jump Start” light system we sell at TGO is a great solution if a good window is not available. A south-facing windowsill can work but usually presents more problems than the fluorescent shop light setup.
If fluorescent shop lights are used, the leaves of the plants must be within inches of the bulbs. Use your own creativity to make a setup that gets the plants directly under the bulbs. The lights should remain on for 16 to 18 hours per day.
#8 Monitor the Plants as They Grow On
Tomato seedlings grow best at a temperature of about 65F (18C) with some air circulation and lots of light.
When watering, most growers soak the mix and then let it get nearly dry before providing more water.
When the plants develop their first true leaves, they should be transplanted into larger individual containers. The plants actually benefit from this re-potting step, as it helps them develop a strong root system. The plants may be set deeply into their new containers to shorten the height of the seedling (tomatoes only).
Most commercial seed starting mixtures have a small amount of fertilizer that will support small seedlings for some time. Depending on the components of your starting mix, you may need to begin fertilizing. If you do fertilize, do it very, very sparingly with a weak dilution.
Depending on the size of your containers and your growing conditions, you may need to pot up a second or third time to prevent your plants from becoming rootbound.
The plants require good lighting to continue to grow well. Place the plants where they get plenty of sunlight, and if that is not possible or adequate, use fluorescent fixtures, or specialized high-intensity grow lamps, or use a combination of natural and artificial lighting.
Keeping large tomato plants indoors, under artifical lighting, can be quite difficult. To avoid problems, don't start too early. The best solution to the lighting dilemma is to plan your seed starting date so that the transplants reach a reasonable size along with the arrival of suitable outdoor temperatures.
#9 Harden Off your Transplants
Introduce the plants to outdoor conditions slowly. This is called "hardening off". If it is not done slowly your plants may be shocked and their growth may temporarily cease.
The longer the plants remains indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate them to the outdoors. Avoid full sun and wind when you first move them outside.
Cold frames can be used to harden off the plants. The covers can remain in place on inclement days and removed on moderate days.
Temporary structures can be built from plastic sheeting. Buildings and fences can be used to provide sun and wind protection while the plants adapt to outside conditions.
If really cold weather is forecast <40F (4C), it is best to bring the plants back inside. Freezing temperatures will destroy your plants (and it happens fast).
After the transplants are hardened off, they can be planted to their final outdoor growing locations either in the garden or in large growing containers. Most agree that any early blossoms should be plucked off prior to transplanting. Others leave the early blossoms in place, especially if the transplant is strong, healthy, and not rootbound.
Common Problems
Leggy Seedlings
The plants can become "leggy," the stems being elongated and limp, and the foliage sparse. Leggy seedlings usually occur due to insufficient lighting, too much heat, or too much fertilizer. Suggested remedies, short of starting over, are to repot the plants deeper as described earlier in Step #8 (tomatoes only) , and to use a fan to improve air circulation and keep temperatures moderated, resulting in stockier and stronger plants.
Damping Off
Characterized by lack of germination (pre-emergent) or causes narrowing of the newly emerged stems at the soil line and the tiny seedlings then flop over and die (post-emergent). Various fungi are responsible for the condition and they are found in high concentrations in any mix with real soil. That's why it's best to use the artificial seed starting mixes mentioned in step #2. Also, it's very important to be sure that plastic domes or baggies on your containers are not airtight. If these precautions are observed, it is unlikely that you will experience damping off.
Slow Growth
When seedlings refuse to grow it is usually because the temperature is too low or the nutrient level is insufficient.
Stuck Leaves
Sometimes the cotyledons (the first leaves formed from the seed) have trouble getting loose from the seed coating. Be patient, as the leaves will usually escape. You could wet the seed coating, or you could try to carefully pinch off the seed coat, but if you pinch off the cotyledons, the seedling will likely die. A simple way to wet the seedlings is with a spray bottle of water set to mist. A small drop of saliva is also very effective at loosening seedcoats.
Over-watering
Many growers fail with tomato plants because they over-water. Soggy soil will cause seed to rot. Once the seedlings are growing, they should be watered thoroughly then left un-watered until they are almost ready to wilt.
Over-fertilizing
Overfertilizing can cause seedlings to die, to stop growing, or to grow rapidly into spindly plants. One or at most 2 applications of very dilute fertilizer are adequate to get a seedling through to transplant size.

Fruit trees for Austin

Fall / winter is the time to plant temperate fruit trees and we’ve got a great selection right now. We do a great deal of research to get varieties that will work well here in central Texas with little maintenance. So, let’s take a quick look at these fruit trees and cover a few basics you’ll need to know before planting.
First, a temperate fruit tree is a tree that will do fine outdoors, in the ground, in our weather conditions. The alternative would be tropical and sub-tropical fruit trees, like avocado, mango, and even citrus. These trees can be damaged or even killed by hard winter freezes, depending on the variety. The rule of thumb here in central Texas for temperate trees is the “P” fruits: peaches, pears, plums, persimmons, pomegranate, and phig (OK, so it’s really fig, but I needed it to work). We are also trying a few types of apples this year, although reports of their success seem to be mixed.
Second, be sure you have the room and conditions necessary to grow a fruit tree. While I encourage pruning trees to a size that is “reachable” for you, they will still need at least 8’-10’ of space away from a building or other trees and AT LEAST 5 hours of direct sun for good production. Full sun all day is fine for all these trees and will lead to better production.
Next, it’s time to choose a tree. Now, I have listed several types of fruit above, but all peaches (or pears, or plums, etc…) are not created equally. Many of the temperate fruits require a certain number of chill hours to produce fruit. Chill hours are the number of hours below 45 degrees between October and February. We strive to carry only low chill hour fruits, as we can often have very mild winters and hence, few chill hours. Even with the attempts we make, some winters are just too mild for good production. The Austin area averages about 700 chill hours a winter, but this can be extremely variable. All the good, independent garden centers in town do their research. Box stores likely do not.
Last, here are a few other tidbits of info you will need to know when choosing a fruit tree. All fruit trees will produce best if they have a cross-pollinator nearby, but some varieties require it. Peach, pomegranate, fig, persimmon, and some plums can be self-fruitful. Pears, apples, and most plums need another tree nearby to produce a good crop. This means room for not one, but two trees. Also, be sure to look at the characteristics of the specific variety you are looking at. Do you want a freestone or clingstone peach? Do you plan on cooking with your pears or eating them fresh? Do you prefer an astringent or non-astringent persimmon? One of our plant consultants will be glad to help you answer these questions and find the variety that is best for you.
So, plant a fruit tree or two this winter and be rewarded with a bumper crop of fresh fruit for years to follow.

Attack of the Aphids!!!

Something wicked has been awakened by the recent rain and cool weather. In all my years in the garden business, I have never seen an explosion of aphids like we’ve seen in the last couple of weeks. Just the other day, I saw several free flying aphids in the middle of a parking lot. I was at least 50 feet from any plant, surrounded by asphalt.

So what can we do about these critters that have suddenly left everything sticky and covered in sooty mold? To start, keep an eye out for the source of the sap. In my yard, it is my pecan trees. I can park a freshly washed car in the drive and within two hours, it is covered in a sticky film. Unfortunately, there isn’t much you can practically do about large trees like this. Just keep an eye on any understory plants. Be sure the aphids are not spreading to these plants and keep an eye out for sooty mold (more on that in a minute). If the aphids are on lower plants, small trees, shrubs, and perennials, you can treat them in several very effective ways.

One of the first ways to go after the aphids is simply to blast them with high pressure water. Products such as the Bug Blaster help to create a spray that is strong enough to remove the bugs but not enough to hurt plants. This is always my first line of defense. If blasting doesn’t seem to be effective, there are a number of great organic products that are very effective on aphids. Insecticidal soap is by far the safest product you can use. It is a very simple soap that is very harmless to people, plants, and animals. Another product I really like is Orange Oil. It is a natural insecticide, miticide, and fungicide. It works really well on aphids and many other insects, but a little care needs to be take when it is used. Never spray an oil in the middle of a sunny day. Be careful of plants in the mint family, including all the salivas, as they will not tolerate oils. If in doubt, test your plant before covering with oil.

Not only will the soap or Orange Oil kill the aphids, they both help to break down the sooty mold. You see, many insects (aphids, scale, mealy bugs) suck chlorophyll from plants. Chlorophyll is a complex sugar made by the plant. Their simple digestive system processes these sugars a little, but what they secrete is basically sugar water called Honey Dew. When Honey Dew accumulates on a surface, especially plant leaves, it can begin to mold. It will turn black and become what is known as Sooty Mold. Enough Sooty Mold on a plant can great hinder that plant’s ability to do photosynthesis and continue to prosper.

Also, before spraying, look for beneficial insects that may already be doing your job for you. There are pictures above of both ladybug larvae and green lacewings. These are both voracious aphid eaters and we would highly encourage you to leave them and let nature take care of the invasion.

Still have questions? Feel free to click on the “Contact Us” link or call the nursery for more info.

It's Corn Gluten Time!!!

Corn Gluten is an excellent, natural way to control (notice I didn't say eliminate) weeds in the lawn. It is usually applied 2 times a year. A September/October application is done to control the early spring weeds that pop up in late February. In February/March another application is done to control the summer weeds. It is in stock now and ready to be applied.

THNAK YOU AUSTIN!!!

Thanks to all of you that voted Great Outdoors as Best Garden Center in the Chronicles Best of '09. We are very flattered and hope to continue doing what we've done to be the best.

Semi-Annual Pottery Sale

It's time again for the semi-annual pottery sale. All weekend (until Wednesday, 9/9 actually) all pots are on sale. At least 20% off, some selected pots are even 30%-70% off.
We will be open on Monday 9am-6pm.

Cure for the Summertime Blues Sale

This sale starts Friday and goes for a while. For best selection, shop early. Once items are gone, they're gone!!!

Helping plants deal with summer heat

It's summertime, and the livin' is, .... well,..... it ain't easy, at least not for a plant. Just posted some ideas for helping your plants deal with summer heat on our main website at www.gonursery.com . Take a minute to read these tips and be sure you're helping your plants the best you can.